There are some meals you never forget. Maybe it’s an anniversary or birthday. Maybe you’re visiting a bucket list restaurant after trying to score a reservation for years. Perhaps a friend shamed you into trying a dish or ingredient that you thought you’d hate but now love.
For me, one of those memorable bites happened on October 22, 2005. This was no white tablecloth affair, but I did wait decades for a reservation. That warm October day marked Game 1 of the World Series with the hometown Chicago White Sox battling the pre-trash-can-equipped Houston Astros. This was Chicago’s first World Series game in 46 years.
While sitting in Sox Park’s notoriously steep upper deck, I remember sinking my teeth into a Maxwell Street Polish Sausage. For all the hype about Chicago Dogs, the Polish is criminally underrated. Imagine an Americanized kielbasa topped with a bed of caramelized onions, yellow mustard, and a few pickled sport peppers. The bun was perfectly steamed, providing ecstasy in each bite while watching the Sox break through for Chicago’s first World Series since 1917. A truly religious moment for fans of the South Side brigade.
I imagine loyal New York Knicks fans are on the cusp of something similar as the Knickerbockers are knocking on the door of the franchise’s first NBA title in 53 years. Oh, I’ve heard about the Knicks-themed food specials. But with security tightened around Madison Square Garden after President Donald Trump’s much-publicized Game 3 appearance, at least I know of one humble would-be Chicago luminary who attended a championship game without making the contest about himself.
Da Pope.
Yes, at the very same game where I chomped on that magnificent Polish sausage, the man who would become Pope Leo XIV was sharing the same stadium air. There’s something about the Pope and sports, as demonstrated by Spike Lee’s display of stolen valor during Game 3 of the NBA Finals on Monday night. Lee, who sported a Knicks jersey with “Pope Leo 14” on the back, asked the Pope in November for a miracle, hoping for a Knicks championship. There was no miracle on Monday night with the President in attendance.
I’m unsure if the Pope, a suburban Chicago native, enjoyed any food during that magical fall night when the Sox bounced Roger Clemens and the Astros. But I can take solace that one of Chicago’s most cherished foods has made its way to the Vatican.
A few days ago, Chicago Mayor Brandon Johnson and a group of locals visited Rome and presented Pope Leo with a gift basket that included a jar of extra-virgin hot giardiniera from JP Graziano, the only family-owned business left along Randolph Restaurant Row. Graziano was once an Italian specialty grocer, but they’ve shifted into sandwiches, providing one of the best lunches in town. The 89-year-old business has evolved through the years. They added a late-night food window to feed grazing West Loopers. They've also collaborated with a variety of media companies, from Barstool to Complex, who sought some Chicago street cred to ingratiate themselves with locals.
On May 20, a member of the mayor’s office showed up at the deli unannounced and told Jim Graziano and his sister, DeAna, of his mission. That left Jim Graziano flatfooted, scrambling for a Sharpie to scribble a note that was hopefully going to be delivered to the Pope: “I'm like, what do you call him — your holiness, right?” Graziano tells me, recalling the mayor’s rep suggesting he jot down a message. Graziano worked in a reference to his business’ website, Taste Real Chicago, in his succinct note, which he and his sister signed: “Your holiness, please enjoy a taste of real Chicago.”
The bottle and note safely made it to Rome, even though Graziano had a few nightmares that the bottle would break or it would somehow leak oil. No one wanted to see the Pope’s white garb stained by giardiniera. Media coverage has been kind, and Graziano has seen a surge in online orders. The extra virgin version, the one delivered to the Vatican, costs $20. The oil is what makes it special versus garden-variety giardiniera, Graziano says.
“I was praying for a picture of the Pope holding the giard… I would have shot to the moon in my boots, you know what I mean?” he adds.
Graziano’s enthusiasm is infectious, but not unique. He beamed with pride, something many Chicagoans, even those who aren’t among the nearly 2 million Catholics in the city, have shown since May 2025 when Robert Francis Prevost ascended to the Papacy. We haven’t heard from the Vatican, but the first American Pope is likely the only Pope in history who knows of giardiniera and understands how the spicy pickled pepper blend lends zest to Italian beefs, pizzas, hot dogs, and even cocktails. Chicagoans aren’t shy with its usage. Graziano intimates that the Pope will use the giardiniera on pizza (“He seems like a sausage and hot giard guy,” he says).
Obviously, pizza is radically different in Italy versus America. And that’s a challenge that celebrity chef Art Smith and veteran Chicago restaurateur Phil Stefani are facing in their plans to open a restaurant at the Pope’s summer residence, Castel Gandolfo. The project’s been delayed a few times, but Smith and Stefani still plan on opening their restaurant, Borgo Laudato Si, later this year. I’ve spoken with Smith several times over the last few months about the project. While the Pope may have an affinity for Chicago thin-crust pizza from a local chain, Smith is adamant in shattering global expectations. He’s hosting an event next weekend in Chicago before the James Beard Awards to hype the project up in front of the media and nominees. “A Taste of the Pope’s Table will be a culinary gathering uniting faith, tradition, and community from Chicago to Castel Gandolfo with dishes from former and nominated James Beard Award-Winning Chefs!” an event description reads.
Smith and Stefani built up relationships with the Vatican long before the restaurant was announced in September. They were part of the mayor’s group that visited the Pope in May, but in November, Smith even prepared the Vatican’s first Thanksgiving Day feast. (I pressed him about where he sourced the turkey, but Smith never replied.) He also gifted the Pope a pair of truffle-hunting dogs to sniff out the edible fungus on the castle’s grounds, symbolizing Borgo Laudato Si’s philosophy of using local ingredients.
Michelin is famously tough when it comes to scoring Italian American restaurants in the United States. The feeling is that the bastardization of the culture doesn’t stand up worldwide. That’s a lot to unpack, but the team behind Borgo Laudato Si is aware of the biases. So, in other words, don’t expect an Italian American red sauce joint. Smith describes the menu as a blend of specialties from Lazio, the famous Central Italian region where Rome resides, like porchetta and bucatini all'Amatriciana. The American influence will come from nods to the Pope’s hometown of Dolton, Illinois; Smith wants to introduce a touch of American barbecue. He’s brought on Chicago chef Darnell Reed of Luella’s Southern Kitchen to help with the weekend event and lend some South Side credibility to the dishes.
Catholics have fled the church in America in recent years as reports of entrenched abuse have come to light. Part of the restaurant’s mission is to spark interest and bring believers back to the church while showing empathy. For instance, the restaurant will hire and train migrants in hospitality. The Pope has been vocal about his support for migrants, clashing with the attitude of that guy who attended the Knicks game. For him, the Pope might as well be woke. More on this story as the restaurant gets closer to opening.
🐦⬛ Bird Droppings
- The news was predictable, but the original owners of Gourmet have filed a lawsuit against the owners of the new worker-owned digital publication of the same name. According to Semafor, Condé Nast — which ceased publication of Gourmet in 2009 — filed a lawsuit against the new publication’s owners in February. Condé Nast allowed its trademark to lapse in 2021, leading the new ownership, a group of five journalists, to snag the trademark. However, Condé Nast claims it continues to feature Gourmet recipes on other platforms, such as Epicurious. The new publication launched in January and hasn't commented about the lawsuit. Good luck to our comrades at the new Gourmet!
- Nearly three years after earning a full three-star rating from Michelin, Smyth was named the top restaurant in North America according to the World’s 50 Best 2026 North American list. Smyth, helmed by John and Karen Urie Shields in Chicago, is known for its pricey tasting menu ($400 to $550 per person) that spares no expense in serving seasonal ingredients flown in from all over the country. Unique dishes include a beeswax molded into a crab leg stuffed with king crab meat. Tables for two are now booked through August.
- Poynter spoke to Ashok, Courtney, Frances, and Jaya about Ravenous' origins and why this worker-owned publication is needed.
- Over on Ravenous, Courtney explores the nostalgic recipes contained in those kitschy spiral church cookbooks. Check out the lovely family story that ensued.
- You’re going to get enchiladas for dinner after reading Amy’s wonderful essay about her favorite comfort food. I edited the piece and was shocked to read that she went a decade without eating enchiladas before rediscovering her groove.
For less than the price of one plate of enchiladas a month, you can subscribe to Ravenous and get access to all of our stories and help support worker-owned media.
Finally, over the last year, we’ve all seen a surge in independent food media. This shouldn’t be a surprise, as there are a lot of talented folks growing their personal platforms while traditional media contracts. That’s part of Ravenous’ origin story, and we’re here to amplify our fellow journalist-creators who are establishing their own publications. Seriously — reach out at info@weareravenous.com, we’d love to hear from you.
One of those people is Hillary Dixler-Canavan, our former colleague at Eater and longtime member of the Vox Media Union. Hillary’s truly a force of nature, a writer and editor who regularly blends empathy, criticism, and just general thoughtfulness. And she’s taken this recipe to Substack with What Are We Having?, a treasure trove of delicious, tested recipes for busy families.
I’ve been a longtime subscriber, and what I admire most about the site is that it’s not just a depot for recipes. I’ve picked up techniques and ideas that have helped feed my family. There’s a psychological aspect in dealing with the stress of finding something tasty, quick, and healthy. What Are We Having? provides me with a good base to solve these riddles. Hillary and her team have tested the recipes, and she’s doing her best to pay them what they're worth, using the same ethical principles one practices when leading what was once one of the largest unions in digital media.
If you need any more encouragement, here’s a coupon for 20 percent off a lifetime subscription, just for Ravenous readers. Subscribe. Your family’s stomachs will thank you.
