As I write this, a Nor’easter has just passed through New York, leaving gray clouds and chilly winds in its wake. And I think to myself, this can’t be. Two weeks ago it was still summer, and I was on the beach, relishing the late-season sun while reading The Nantucket Diet Murders, one of those perfect books that only seems to live in rental beach houses. And now here I am, in pants. I wore a sweater the other day. It’s disgusting.
So as soup season descends, forgive me for reminiscing on a summer of good eating up and down the east coast. Of course, I enjoyed all my summer staples (Rippers veggie burger and cheese fries, you will always be famous), but in the moments I pried myself away from New York’s beaches, I ate well. Here are three meals I enjoyed along the east coast that I hope to revisit next summer.
Cheesesteak at White House Subs, Atlantic City, New Jersey
Ever since I was a kid, my family has spent the end of the summer in Cape May, New Jersey, an idyllic beach and birding town on the southernmost tip of the state, on about the same latitude as D.C. And given that I can’t drive, this involves taking the bus to Atlantic City, and having a family member pick me up and drive me the rest of the way. Luckily, this now involves a stop at White House Subs, a sandwich shop that’s been open since 1946. The white and orange walls are adorned with casino-adjacent bric-a-brac, like a framed towel that Frank Sinatra supposedly used during his last show in Atlantic City. And it serves a stripped-down version of a cheesesteak the size of your whole arm – just sliced beef, provolone, and grilled onions (if you want them), served on spongy Italian bread so the whole thing melts into your mouth, without any crusty scrapings. I know I am not a Philadelphian, but in my opinion this is what a cheesesteak should be.
Fried skate at Cafe Mutton, Hudson, New York
I think my friends and I had all forgotten what hospitality was until we went to Cafe Mutton. Its prompt, accurate service, sure, but more so the warmth that exudes from a place that seems to genuinely care about everyone having a good time. And it’s also the magic trick of seemingly simple food made incredible. There were many joys of our meal at Cafe Mutton, like the mozzarella and anchovy toast, or the smoky and sweet butterscotch cream puffs. But one of the biggest surprises to me was the fried skate in a puddle of herby tartar sauce. The fry was so perfectly crisp and crumbly, and the skate sweet and tender, so that the “well no one objects to fried fish” order turned into the centerpiece. Turning the most unassuming dishes into things you’ll think about for weeks to come is what Cafe Mutton does best.
Chicken adobo at Kuya Ja’s Lechon Belly, Rockville, Maryland
Every year my wife exhibits at the Small Press Expo, and usually, eating is a matter of convenience. The 7-Eleven in the strip mall next to the hotel provides a hearty lunch of granola bars and sodas, and dinner is typically whatever fast food can be had for cheap nearby. But on our first night, we did that thing New Yorkers do and walked through the not-friendly-for-pedestrians streets to Kuya Ja’s, a Filipino spot that warns its customers that no, you cannot trim the fat off lechon. I opted for the chicken adobo bowl, a massive serving of marinated chicken and a soft egg with steamed, just-crisp bok choy over white rice. It was the kind of homey, rich food I could have eaten for days.
New on Ravenous This Week
Amy McCarthy
Courtney E. Smith
Ashok Selvam
🐦⬛ Bird Droppings
- Mechanical Turk alert! 404 reports that Muse AI, which purports to be able to make you restaurant reservations, is actually just humans in a call center.
- Over at Best Food Blog, Anna Hezel wonders about why there are no more viral recipes. I disagree slightly with the premise (what else do you call everyone trying to make dot cake?) but it’s a great look into how what we eat is dictated by how Meta and TikTok’s algorithms work.
- Philadelphia Councilmember Nicolas O’Rourke has introduced a resolution supporting a boycott of Starbucks until the company finalizes a fair union contract. You can read our reporting on the union's call for a boycott here.
- The San Francisco Chronicle is bringing back starred restaurant reviews, writing that they "help diners get an immediate sense of value." Many papers got rid of the star system at the beginning of the COVID pandemic, but the Infatuation brought back ratings in 2022, and the Washington Post reintroduced stars last winter. Then again, many papers got rid of their restaurant critics, or shut down altogether, between now and then.
- On Friday, Chip City cookies, a chain that received Series B funding from Danny Meyers' private equity firm in 2024, announced it was closing all of its stores permanently. So now's a great chance to read Courtney's piece on private equity's influence and investment in the cookie business.
Raven Nickname: Eric D. Crow aka Meatball
This week’s nickname comes to us from Shoshana and Noah:
My proposed name is “Eric D. Crow, aka Meatball.” The given name (Eric), is in honor of Eric Draven from “The Crow.” The nickname (meatball) is because my husband and I couldn’t decide between the two names.
Compromise is important in any relationship. Thanks, friends!
Want to give our raven a silly little name? You have to become a Regular. Do you want to know the raven's real name? Only Big Spenders have access to that truth.
